What the hell is this?
The outcome of the match is defined by RNG at the start.
What's the catch?
The outcome of the match is defined by RNG at the start.
What's the catch?
Actually, the draws are not the decisive factor — coin flip is. It is very hard to overcome 5 extra points generated by a strategem.
This has been quite fun for me.
I have played games to where I won R1 by more than 10 and still won.
If the opponent plays all of their low cards. In round 2, play your low cards and the opponent has no choice but to play the higher cards.
Once they are higher than what you won in R1, pass and win.
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The magic number is 7 imo, excluding what was added from the strategem.
I have played games to where I won R1 by more than 10 and still won.
If the opponent plays all of their low cards. In round 2, play your low cards and the opponent has no choice but to play the higher cards.
Once they are higher than what you won in R1, pass and win.
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I strongly disagree.
Winning on red coin is way easier.
Having played more, I have revised this opinion. I actually think the coin flip is pretty balanced. It is a lot easier for the second player to win by a narrow margin than it is for the first player. Winning on even (something the first player should never accomplish) is advantageous as well — compared to winning a card down (it is much harder to 2-0 a card down).
But five more total points available in the match than your opponent has is also significant.
I played this mode today with different strategies and these are my thoughts:
1. if you start on blue coin: hard mulligan 1, 2, 3 bears and the highest one because you basically want a value-based hand that allows you to stay in the round as long as possible. Initially i tried the "ladder" approach, starting from bottom to top, but this soon revealed to be a bad idea for three reasons: you are wasting for free very flexible cards, you are conceding the round on the spot and your opponents, knowing you haven't enough filler cards, will find infinite value when bleeding hard.
The goal is to win the round, almost always (having the priority is more important than +5 points). Passing is optimal only when opponent overcommits hard (almost 20 points of difference, stratagem not included) or when he needs to play 2 cards to reach your point cap. Another useful tool is tempo pass at 7 cards, most players are surprised of the gap and, thinking you have overcommitted, they give you the win on even.
1.1. Start on blue and win R1: if your opponent used a lot of low tempo cards in R1, just mulligan for your low tempo ones. Play them and when the point gap is higher than the previous one registered in R1 (excluded the stratagem, that's crucial), just insta-pass. You won the game.
If your opponent hasn't played small units in R1, adapt to the given cards. If you have a top hand, just go for the 2-0, otherwise same strategy as before.
1.2 Loss on blue R1 (on even): just concede? You can't mulligan properly because you dont' know opponent's plan, you can only win if he throws hard.
1.3 Loss on blue R1 (not on even): very tricky spot. Try to mulligan for a flexible hand and hope he doesn't find the nuts.
Note: when Round 1 lasts until the last card, if you win with a point gap lower or equal to 5, just pass R2. You won the game anyway; bleeding is useless and potentially dangerous.
2: Start on red: same mulligan as blue, you want to play deep in the round. Try to win with a gap equal or lower to 15 (more it's problematic).
Always stay ahead after card number 7, if possible.
2.1 Start on red and win R1 (on even): mulligan for your low tempo bears and force him to play enough cards to break the threshold. When he does, insta pass. You won the game.
If you have the nuts, just go for the 2-0.
2.2 Start on red and win R1 (not on even): same strategy as 2.1, but way less inclined to push for the 2-0.
Note: going for 2-0 is a good choice if the sum of your top end cards is higher than your opponent. So, just keep in mind how many 12+ bears he used. Last premise is not 100% true, because this line assumes that his hand will not be optimal by default, since he must keep 1 or 2 low tempo bears for the pass (sometimes they are super greedy and you lose, but happens. Their play is wrong in the medium/long run).
I like this mode, it's the essence of strategic Gwent. I hope devs dont' forget that when they design cards.
i am playing more this mode, still have the same opinion as before, but i am playing a lot because its easy to complish master contracts with the leaders i would never complete without this kind of mode.
the problem on this mode - no dekbuilding strategy, just pointslam, no control etc.
the good thing i can take from this mode - who read about the balance things, pass and etc - texts made by mods here in forum will understand a lot about this mode.
this mode, with the provision balance, is what gwent should be. The idea here is win one round with the provision spent less than your opponent spent in the round he wins, so last round you have more provision, and, in theory, you win. Here its the same, but we change provision to power.
But, unfortunately devs cant balance the game, so this mechanic doenst works in normal gwnet (so many times opponent just slam provision in round 1 and still wins, special if you dont get your hight provision cards)
the problem on this mode - no dekbuilding strategy, just pointslam, no control etc.
the good thing i can take from this mode - who read about the balance things, pass and etc - texts made by mods here in forum will understand a lot about this mode.
this mode, with the provision balance, is what gwent should be. The idea here is win one round with the provision spent less than your opponent spent in the round he wins, so last round you have more provision, and, in theory, you win. Here its the same, but we change provision to power.
But, unfortunately devs cant balance the game, so this mechanic doenst works in normal gwnet (so many times opponent just slam provision in round 1 and still wins, special if you dont get your hight provision cards)
I would also like to share my take on this new seasonal mode, now that i've played it a considerable number of times.
First of all, i would say this new seasonal is quite interesting, it should be treated as a success and kept in the 12-mode seasonal rotation (unlike the shitshow that was 'Between a Rock and Hard Place' or whatever it was called).
Secondly, i would like to thank @quintivarium and his guide (link below) for this mode, shared very quickly, while i was still learning the mode, it helped a lot.
forums.cdprojektred.com
- The point difference is the major factor in this mode for sure - always taking into account the stratagem value - and winning by little is way more important than card advantage, in fact, card advantage is worthless, winning on even is valuable only for round control.
- On blue coin, you should trigger stratagem right away on first turn, for 3 reasons:
1. the turn end will trigger automatically, saving time and effort
2. it's not punishable and opponent knows you have those 5 points anyway
3. if you DONT use it early, and opponent passes before stratagem its used, you lose the 5pt advantage of blue coin, because you would have to use another turn and more wasted points for it
- I haven't seen anyone mentioning the value of memory for this mode. I am proud of having a very strong memory, and its been helpful remembering which bears the opponent used R1, since after they go to the GY, they just show as default 6pt bears. Knowing what's been played increase odds of figuring out what your opponent has in hand.
- The 'ladder approach', which has been mentioned here and its very popular, seems to be incorrect, at least partially.
Starting R1 by playing all the weaker cards, means you have a weaker R1, likely to lose, then on R2 alll you have is higher cards and are very vulnerable to a value bleed.
What im doing now is a 'odds-evens' ladder, this way leaves me margin to win by only 1, 2 or 3 later on, instead of being forced to play a high card and get a lot ahead of opponent. It also helps in making you less predictable and opponent is less likely to memorize what you've played before.
- Identifying player patterns is also quite important. Luckily the IQ of the average Gwent player is *insert insult of choice, to be censored by mods*, so they are easily predicted - after losing R1 on even, they ALWAYS go for a 2-0, making them feel better if they win by 2-0 rather than by 2-1, so mulligan away for best cards in that situation.
First of all, i would say this new seasonal is quite interesting, it should be treated as a success and kept in the 12-mode seasonal rotation (unlike the shitshow that was 'Between a Rock and Hard Place' or whatever it was called).
Secondly, i would like to thank @quintivarium and his guide (link below) for this mode, shared very quickly, while i was still learning the mode, it helped a lot.
Gwent Strategy Articles
GWENT STRATEGY ARTICLES: COMMENTARY The Challenge of Syndicate The Syndicate coin mechanism poses at least two special problems for both developers and players: consistency and tempo. This article looks at each, explains how it becomes an issue, and then discusses ways the issue can be...
forums.cdprojektred.com
- The point difference is the major factor in this mode for sure - always taking into account the stratagem value - and winning by little is way more important than card advantage, in fact, card advantage is worthless, winning on even is valuable only for round control.
- On blue coin, you should trigger stratagem right away on first turn, for 3 reasons:
1. the turn end will trigger automatically, saving time and effort
2. it's not punishable and opponent knows you have those 5 points anyway
3. if you DONT use it early, and opponent passes before stratagem its used, you lose the 5pt advantage of blue coin, because you would have to use another turn and more wasted points for it
- I haven't seen anyone mentioning the value of memory for this mode. I am proud of having a very strong memory, and its been helpful remembering which bears the opponent used R1, since after they go to the GY, they just show as default 6pt bears. Knowing what's been played increase odds of figuring out what your opponent has in hand.
- The 'ladder approach', which has been mentioned here and its very popular, seems to be incorrect, at least partially.
Starting R1 by playing all the weaker cards, means you have a weaker R1, likely to lose, then on R2 alll you have is higher cards and are very vulnerable to a value bleed.
What im doing now is a 'odds-evens' ladder, this way leaves me margin to win by only 1, 2 or 3 later on, instead of being forced to play a high card and get a lot ahead of opponent. It also helps in making you less predictable and opponent is less likely to memorize what you've played before.
- Identifying player patterns is also quite important. Luckily the IQ of the average Gwent player is *insert insult of choice, to be censored by mods*, so they are easily predicted - after losing R1 on even, they ALWAYS go for a 2-0, making them feel better if they win by 2-0 rather than by 2-1, so mulligan away for best cards in that situation.
Yesterday and today i went from 30 winning with a specific leader to Master it.
I have to say, i am playing this Mode pretty well, almost dont lose. Yesterday i had 69% of winning (Yes, i ve made The count) and today problably i have more.
For the part of memory. Yes i use my memory too, but we can see The cards opponent payed in the menu in left of The screen, so memory isnt so essencial (ok, in mulligan phase we cant see it, so here its important)
I have to say, i am playing this Mode pretty well, almost dont lose. Yesterday i had 69% of winning (Yes, i ve made The count) and today problably i have more.
For the part of memory. Yes i use my memory too, but we can see The cards opponent payed in the menu in left of The screen, so memory isnt so essencial (ok, in mulligan phase we cant see it, so here its important)
At first glance it seemed dumb to me, but it has now become one of the only 3 seasonals I actually enjoy. I think it brings out the very bare bones of Gwent, I imagine it's somewhat what the game would be like if it was played in real life, simple yet enjoyable.
Also I've noted every single opponent has GG'd me no matter if they won or lost (and I have done so in return as well). Wholesome and enjoyable when you want something a bit more simple and relaxing.
Also I've noted every single opponent has GG'd me no matter if they won or lost (and I have done so in return as well). Wholesome and enjoyable when you want something a bit more simple and relaxing.
At first, I was a little disappointed that the bears didn't have abilities (I read "different powers" as "abilities") but It is a funny Seasonal.
It's an open decklist thing, you have to count carefully, keep track of the cards your opponent played and there's also a part of bluff and a little rng.
I still haven't found the perfect strategy (if there's one). I try to make the opponent overcommit in every round (and stay close to the 5pts gap in R1). Strangely, I win far more on Red Coin...
It's an open decklist thing, you have to count carefully, keep track of the cards your opponent played and there's also a part of bluff and a little rng.
I still haven't found the perfect strategy (if there's one). I try to make the opponent overcommit in every round (and stay close to the 5pts gap in R1). Strangely, I win far more on Red Coin...
My strategis.
Red coin -
Round 1 - muligan phase - i always muligan 14, 15 and 16 point cards
win on even.
Stay with The same number of card that your opponent.
Try to not use The 13 points card, but if that is necessary to win, you can use it
Round 2 - muligan phase - again try to muligan away 14, 15 and 16.
Use all you cards, Stay only with The 13 points card.
Round 3 - you Will use 13, 14, 15 and 16. Your opponent problably already used One off them and its a win. In worst scenario your opponent didnt use it and Thats a draw.
Blue coin -
Round 1 - muligan phase - same
Play 3 middle top cards and pass.
Your opponent problably Will be more than One card down to win.
IF He wins by One point (in fact, considering the TÁ its 6 points) and pass in round 2 - Thats unfurtanly its a draw.
If for some reason He wins by 2 points (his cards cant get exaclty One point ahead) and pass in round 2 - you win.
If He try tô bleeds you in round 2 you Will problably win.
If in round 1 you use top cards and your opponent use it too, problably you Will need to Stay ahead anyway and go to a long round.
If you win a long round you Will problably be a card down.
Round 2 - here its The most dificult round.
If you have low cards and in muligan phase you get more low cards, go to a bleed with low cards.
If you have top cards (dont forget you muligan 14, 15 and 16 só you Will problably have top cards) go to a 2 0.
Even with a card down you Will problably wins, because your opponent doesnt know if you go all win or a bleed with low cards and He Will have low and top cards to try to avoid a soft bleed but also try to win The round
Red coin -
Round 1 - muligan phase - i always muligan 14, 15 and 16 point cards
win on even.
Stay with The same number of card that your opponent.
Try to not use The 13 points card, but if that is necessary to win, you can use it
Round 2 - muligan phase - again try to muligan away 14, 15 and 16.
Use all you cards, Stay only with The 13 points card.
Round 3 - you Will use 13, 14, 15 and 16. Your opponent problably already used One off them and its a win. In worst scenario your opponent didnt use it and Thats a draw.
Blue coin -
Round 1 - muligan phase - same
Play 3 middle top cards and pass.
Your opponent problably Will be more than One card down to win.
IF He wins by One point (in fact, considering the TÁ its 6 points) and pass in round 2 - Thats unfurtanly its a draw.
If for some reason He wins by 2 points (his cards cant get exaclty One point ahead) and pass in round 2 - you win.
If He try tô bleeds you in round 2 you Will problably win.
If in round 1 you use top cards and your opponent use it too, problably you Will need to Stay ahead anyway and go to a long round.
If you win a long round you Will problably be a card down.
Round 2 - here its The most dificult round.
If you have low cards and in muligan phase you get more low cards, go to a bleed with low cards.
If you have top cards (dont forget you muligan 14, 15 and 16 só you Will problably have top cards) go to a 2 0.
Even with a card down you Will problably wins, because your opponent doesnt know if you go all win or a bleed with low cards and He Will have low and top cards to try to avoid a soft bleed but also try to win The round
I played this seasonal so much last time, I ended up receiving a warning that I was about to max out on the number of crowns I can get in a week.
The seasonal has a change at the beginning, but should still be fun.
The seasonal has a change at the beginning, but should still be fun.
me too.
but in fact i still think this is a stupid seasonal. But why i played so much so? because its easy to win with weak lleaders that i would never win in normal games, so i am finishing the master contracts.
Only 3 leaders to finish them all, and problably i will finish in this seasonal
As i said, i would problably finish the 3 leaders master i needed to complete all, and i did it.
I received - again - the message that i reached the week limit crowns heheh
I find Bearly balanced by far the most fun and interesting mode:
- It is actually strategic. Matches are not solely determined by the match-up and only about 50% determined by luck of the draw.
- It is fast paced. Most matches take well under 5 minutes. For someone like me who is lucky to get a 30 minute slot of uninterrupted time a day, that is important.
- It is instructive. There is no better lesson on over commitment.
- It actually works on a cell phone without causing me to curse the interface every other card.
If I lose a Bearly Balanced match it's usually because my opponent has outplayed me.
If I lose a match on ladder it's often because my opponent has a better deck.
So I'm looking forward to the next Bearly Balanced seasonal and playing much less on ladder in the meantime.
If I lose a match on ladder it's often because my opponent has a better deck.
So I'm looking forward to the next Bearly Balanced seasonal and playing much less on ladder in the meantime.