Building a gaming PC

+
But can it happen selectively with some programs and not with others? So far it's exclusively with AoW3. My current PSU is a not so stellar Thermaltake, now over 3 years old, so it might be time for a replacement.

Other noticeable problems I've had are crashes in Wasteland 2, resulting in corrupted graphics and artifacts and a crash to desktop. Same thing happened with my old video card.

Ironically my system performs very well in much more demanding games.
Weird. Do you have a friend that could lend you a PSU & other spare parts so you could troubleshoot the issue?

Also, after installing a few Noctua NF-A14 case intake fans, my build is now complete.



Now all I need to do is upgrade my monitor and I'm set for The Witcher 3. :)
 
So my computer shutdown again while playing a different game. Gotta be the PSU.

What would be a good replacement? I'm considering a 620 w modular Seasonic. Currently running a dying Thermaltake 650w, so I suppose the 620w would likely provide more stable and reliable power than what I have (even when it was new).

I wouldn't like to go over 650 or 700. Seems overkill for a single GPU system.
 
Last edited:
I've heard that the 500-600W range Super Flower PSUs offer amazing value for money. But like I said, I've heard it. Have no personal experience with them.
 
Well with each node iteration the component power consumption decreases. So going by that the power needs are most likely going to decrease anyway. Unless by future proofing you mean room for SLI but even then 600 something should do fine today I would guess.

I have a 4 or 5 year old CPU that's 128W, I run 3 HDDs, GPU(altho it's just 75W currently but previous was 330W), a couple of fans and my 650W managed just fined.

Newer CPUs range from 60-90W, likewise with GPUs they now consume a lot less power and HDDs generally consume single digits or sometimes double.
 
Well with each node iteration the component power consumption decreases. So going by that the power needs are most likely going to decrease anyway. Unless by future proofing you mean room for SLI but even then 600 something should do fine today I would guess.

I have a 4 or 5 year old CPU that's 128W, I run 3 HDDs, GPU(altho it's just 75W currently but previous was 330W), a couple of fans and my 650W managed just fined.

Newer CPUs range from 60-90W, likewise with GPUs they now consume a lot less power and HDDs generally consume single digits or sometimes double.

I agree that 600-something should be fine, but 500 is risky. It's the minimum stated requirement for something like a GTX970.
 
"Stated" requirements for power supplies are usually inflated, because the ratings of consumer-grade power supplies are often fictitious. The ratings of even first-class power supplies may be overstated by 30 to 50 watts, while common power-supply-shaped igniters may not be able to source more than half their rated load. Ratings published by graphics card manufacturers are not so much practical as they are defensive.

500 watts on a well-made power supply (Super Flower, Seasonic, Delta, the best lines from Corsair and Antec) has a good margin of safety for a single GPU, even up to 250W TDP. The only exception I'd make to that is for a combination with a high-power AMD FX CPU.
 
Thoughts on the Seasonic SSR-650RM and the SS-620GM2?

Also can a particular game cause (or worsen) the shutdown problem? It happens regularly on AoW 3 on Ultra settings, but there is no overheating at all. Does it run in some weird power mode?
 
Thoughts on the Seasonic SSR-650RM and the SS-620GM2?

Also can a particular game cause (or worsen) the shutdown problem? It happens regularly on AoW 3 on Ultra settings, but there is no overheating at all. Does it run in some weird power mode?

The issue with anything that does 3D, I believe, is that you get mode changes. The GPU draws a lot more power in 3D, to the extent of applying or removing 10 amps or more when it switches. That's why you need a really solid 12V rail for gaming. Anyway, different engines will execute the mode change differently, giving different manifestations of bugs.

Seasonic: The SSR-650RM is new, and it is excellent. It actually meets 80 Plus Gold under all conditions, something that can't be said about a lot of 80 Plus Golds.
The SS-620GM2 is an updated M12II 620 ("EVO edition"). The S12II/M12II line has been workhorses for years, under Seasonic, Corsair, and Antec labels. It's not as modern, but both are beyond any real criticism.
 
Thanks @Guy N'wah. Considering the SSR-650M is only 5 bucks more expensive I'd say it's the better choice.

Just to confirm before I place my order, it is time to replace my current PSU, right?
 
Thanks @Guy N'wah. Considering the SSR-650M is only 5 bucks more expensive I'd say it's the better choice.

Just to confirm before I place my order, it is time to replace my current PSU, right?

Worth doing. A computer that has gone flaky over time suggests a power supply replacement is the first thing to try. Let us know how the SSR-650M works out. That would be an extremely attractive power supply for a lot of the users here.
 
Useful info for those considering buying a dedicated sound card/dac. Or actually even for those who are not considering it. :p


IMO, an often overlooked yet crucially important aspect of your gaming experience.
 
Any way I can test my PSU without taking apart the computer? I suspect its causing my gpu to crash. I read its voltage may vary and it might be behind the crashing.
 
Any way I can test my PSU without taking apart the computer? I suspect its causing my gpu to crash. I read its voltage may vary and it might be behind the crashing.

Unless you have a lab substantial enough to have a power supply tester, you have to test a suspect PSU by replacing it with a known good one. Fortunately, the PSU is easy to replace. With the side of the case off, just unscrew it from the back panel and slide it out. Be sure to connect the replacement the same way the original was connected.
 
Unless you have a lab substantial enough to have a power supply tester, you have to test a suspect PSU by replacing it with a known good one. Fortunately, the PSU is easy to replace. With the side of the case off, just unscrew it from the back panel and slide it out. Be sure to connect the replacement the same way the original was connected.

I'm not sure I can tamper with it in any way without canceling the warranty. Guess I'll have to send it back for tech support. Thanks
 
I'm about to build a new gaming PC and was wondering if there's any benefit to faster RAM from Corsair/G.Skill etc. The build I'm considering is medium-high (i7 4790, GTX 970) so I'm not sure whether adding any non-standard RAM to a medium-high build would make a difference. This PC would be primarily used for gaming; no video-editing etc.

Should I spend the extra $50-75 on slightly faster RAM, or am I better off getting standard RAM and putting that money to use elsewhere on the PC?
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom