Building a gaming PC

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Also, I was confusing my GPU with my CPU when I said it gets up to the 80s when I play TW2. I'm going to run the game and give it a quick test, see what the CPU temp actually is.
Ah, for GPU it's fine to go that high. TW2 is a monstrous GPU user ;D For my GTX 680 and Linux version it averages at 79°C on ultra settings (no ubersampling). But it's not a heavy CPU user. Shadow Warrior Linux release actually uses CPU much more.
 
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My Haswell average idle temperatures are around +31.0°C. 46° does seem high especially for idle.
Yup. My overclocked 4790K idels around high 20s/low30s. I am using a liquid cooler though.

But even if you're using an air cooler 45C in idle seem high.. Very high.

@Garrison72 do you know what your CPU cooler is?

May be your fan doesn't rotate fast enough (some silent profiles can boost silence at the cost of cooling). Or may be general ventilation inside the case isn't very efficient? Is your PSU air cycle separated from the rest of the case? In better cases they usually are, but a lot of cases don't separate them.
I was also thinking that there might not be enough thermal paste (or the opposite, way too much of it) which gets in the way of heat dispersion. Or the CPU cooler might not be properly installed and thus the heat sink might not have a proper contact with the CPU.
 
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Corsair H60. I cranked the fans up and it's hovering in the high 30s. I loaded Alan Wake and played for 30 minutes on highest settings and it was around the low 40s. I need to re install TW2 so I'll try it with that later.
 
Corsair H60. I cranked the fans up and it's hovering in the high 30s. I loaded Alan Wake and played for 30 minutes on highest settings and it was around the low 40s. I need to re install TW2 so I'll try it with that later.
Hmm. To be honest, you would've been better off with a H100i. Or a high end air cooler. I personally don't see much point with H60/H80 with their tiny radiators. Especially so when combined with a Haswell-E i7.

Regardless, the temps should not be that high. Contact the tech support or just take the PC back where you bought it if it's possible.
 
I can't offer much technical info about speakers myself but I've had a set of Logitech x-540 for years and they've served me well. If you have a decent sound card you will be surprised by the improvement in sound quality and if you can play loudly (eg. do not live in an apartment) you will also enjoy surround sound. For me it makes a huge difference, and most games nowadays support it.

If you are able get a good set of 5.1 speakers. Otherwise, those 2.1 Logitech you linked are probably OK. If you are truly interested in sound, also look for dedicated, shielded sound cards. From what I understand certain headphones give you amazing clarity but I really like the 5.1 audio experience.

TW2 for instance had excellent sound design, impressive with a 5.1 set. Graphics aren't the only feature that helps you get inside the game.



thanks! @volsung ended up buying these http://asia.creative.com/p/speakers/sbs-a550 and I got them for sorta cheap. I can't really tell the difference with the more expensive 5.1 setups when I tested it out so yea.

It makes a world of difference with songs and stuff (the subwoofer) I haven't tried it for gaming yet since I'm swamped with work. I did see my friend play Bloodborne on a 5.1 setup and the horror parts were even so much more atmospheric but didn't have much time to see.
 
It seems I'm getting a 'new' PC for The Witcher 3. I actually don't want to invest in new hardware before 14nm Chips are out, but someone made me an offer I could not refuse... HD 7950 Boost (/R9 280) + i5 2400 + 16GB Ram in a nice µATX-case... 100€ :yes:
 
NVIDIA Control Panel detects Asus LCD monitor as Ancor Communications Inc.

NVIDIA Control Panel detects Asus LCD monitor as Ancor Communications Inc.

Answer ID 2964 | Published 04/19/2011 03:02 PM | Updated 04/21/2011 10:11 AM
I have an Asus LCD monitor connected to my NVIDIA graphics card and when I open the NVIDIA display properties, in the "Change resolution" panel, my monitor's name is shown as "Ancor Communication Inc.".


This is expected behavior with select LCD monitors from the LCD maker Asus. Most LCD monitor manufactured for PCs use LCD panels which are manufactured by a company other than the maker of the monitor itself. Asus uses LCD panels manufactured by a company named Ancor Communications Inc. in some of their PC line of LCD monitors. Asus stores this information in the internal EDID of their LCD monitors. NVIDIA's policy is to generate names based on the following template: 'Manufacturer Name' + 'Display Name'

The manufacturer name is determined from the manufacturer ID in the EDID and the corresponding entry in Microsoft's PnP table. The display name is extracted directly from the EDID.

In the case of certain Asus LCD monitors, the name is generated as: 'Ancor Communications Inc.' + 'ASUS "model number". Since this string is too long to be displayed fully in the NVIDIA Control Panel, it is truncated which is why you will only see the name 'Ancor Communications' or smaller depending on the size of the window. This is not considered an NVIDIA driver bug.
 
Däm, obviously I fail at being görman.

(I therefore use increased döses of ümlauts to reinförce my germänness)

Can't think of a good enough answer so I'm gonna say, just one. A very, very patient one.

He goes to GOG's server (Cyprus?) data center with an external drive, pays cash, copies TW3 installer, brings it back to East Frisia and burns it on DVD's, installs it and then goes to Taiwan or China for each computer part he needs to actually run it. But by then it's time to download a new patch so he goes back to Cyprus.

I'm sure someone here will think of a better answer.
 
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Okay guys, I'm going crazy here. Played TW3, great stuff. Loved every minute. Temperatures are all okay, FPS stable, can record with the second hard drive I got now. This morning I stand up and get the PC going. Do some editing, upload videos on my other PC. Then shut the PC down to save some energy since I had other things to do.

Midday I come back, I set the 0/1 switch to 1, suddenly some kind of short buzz or knack and a spark in my case. I press the power switch. Nothing happens. Current Fuse seems to have gone out. Fine, I switch it back on. Try it. Nothing. I try switch the 0/1 switch off - wait a bit - try it again - nothing. I try using another power socket/plug - nothing.

My PC won't fire up anymore. Not a single bit, not even tries to start and then stop - no, just no power at all, dead.

It HAS to be the PSU, right? I mean if it would be the MB or the GPU or the CPU it would TRY to start.
So either the PSU or the Power Switch, and it is more likely it's the PSU.

Think the problem was the PSU itself? I had the PC hanging on a Power Stip, which is not all that great but it worked for the old PC for the last 8 years, also my PC has been hanging on this thing for the last few weeks and nothing happened. Even if that was the problem the PSU (Enermax Triathlor Eco 80+ 650W) is supposed to have a security system that prevents any damage done to components due to a power or voltage problem. Also I should mention the spark did happen WITHOUT the PC being turned on, I didn't turn it on, it happened before that and then I tried to turn it on an nothing happened. So it just happened by enabling the power to flow into the PSU, nothing else.

I have no idea what to do. I'll order a new PSU and try it. And if it does work I am using just a normal power socket from now on and do the monitor and external harddrives and everything else connect to another power strip.

I have had more problems with this new PC than ever with anything before that.

What is your opinion?
PSU? Something else?
What caused it?
The power strip or the PSU itself?
 
The PSU is the first guess in a case like that. Especially if bangs, sparks, or smoke are involved.

Although it's possible for a PC to go completely comatose, to the extent of not even spinning the fans, the PSU is more likely.

(Explanation: There's a "power good" signal from the PSU to the motherboard. It's on a green wire (the only green wire in the 20+4-pin power cable). When you power on, the CPU grounds that signal, to tell the PSU "go ahead and start". So if the CPU or motherboard is so hosed it can't signal the PSU, nothing at all starts.)

You can do a quick test of a PSU: unplug and remove it entirely from the PC, and find the green wire on the 20+4 connector. Also find a nearby black wire (all black wires are ground). Connect the PSU to mains, turn its power switch to on, and short green to black with a paperclip or anything close enough. If the PSU is not dead, it will turn its fan on.

http://www.wikihow.com/Check-a-Power-Supply
 
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